Here is the proper way to transplant a tree.

Some species may survive transplanting any time during the year when the ground is not frozen, but woody plants are preferably moved in the spring after the ground thaws and before the buds on the tree or shrub begin to swell. They may also be moved in the fall after leaf drop but before the ground freezes. Fall transplant success may be increased by transplanting hardy p...

Here is the proper way to transplant a tree.

Some species may survive transplanting any time during the year when the ground is not frozen, but woody plants are preferably moved in the spring after the ground thaws and before the buds on the tree or shrub begin to swell. They may also be moved in the fall after leaf drop but before the ground freezes. Fall transplant success may be increased by transplanting hardy plants into sites with good soil moisture and wind protection. Woody plants that are transplanted in late spring and early summer, when shoot growth is at its peak, tend to show the greatest transplant injury.

Deciduous trees with a stem diameter of less than 1 inch and small deciduous shrubs may be dug either bare root or with a soil ball. Larger plants should only be dug with soil attached. Bare root transplanting should only be done in the spring and care must be taken to prevent damage to roots when removing the soil. Most shrub species require a root ball diameter of about two-thirds of the branch spread. The soil ball for trees should be a minimum of 12 inches for each 1 inch of trunk diameter.
For deciduous trees and shrubs the soil ball should be:

Width = 9-12 in. in diameter/every 1 in. of tree diameter
Depth = 6 in./every 1 in. of tree diameter

For example: A tree trunk 2 inches wide would need a soil ball of 18-24 inches wide and 12 inches deep.


Trees and shrubs that have been dug for transplanting should be planted as soon as possible. Cover a root ball with damp material which will retain moisture (burlap, peat moss, canvas, plastic, etc.) until planting. Plastic should only be used in shaded areas for less than a day or heat injury and/or root suffocation may occur. When a tree or shrub is stored, it should be protected from direct sunlight, winds, and temperature extremes. If any woody plants cannot be planted for more than a week, their roots should be covered with a mulch or moist soil and the plants should be placed in a shaded area. In all cases root systems should not be allowed to dry out. Dry roots can severely decrease the potential for transplant success.

The new hole should be twice the size of the rootball and mulch the area around the tree with not more than 3 inches of mulch and water.

What to do now--I would mulch around the tree with not more than 3 inches deep of mulch and water with 1 inch of water every third day. You can place a pan under the tree and turn the sprinkler on and when the pan has 1 inch of water in it stop.

You can transplant the tree into a large , enormous pot but it will only be a temporary measure as this tree will grow too large for any pot.If you have to uproot it then water well the day before to soften the soil. Dig at least 12 inches away from the trunk around the tree and dig down 2 feet. Have the new home ready for the tree to go straight into with a good potting mix and water in. Don't fertilise for 8 weeks as the tree will be in shock and need time to recover.You will also need to prune the tree to promote roo...

You can transplant the tree into a large , enormous pot but it will only be a temporary measure as this tree will grow too large for any pot.If you have to uproot it then water well the day before to soften the soil. Dig at least 12 inches away from the trunk around the tree and dig down 2 feet. Have the new home ready for the tree to go straight into with a good potting mix and water in. Don't fertilise for 8 weeks as the tree will be in shock and need time to recover.You will also need to prune the tree to promote root growth.

FROM WHAT I HAVE SEEN FROM THE TWO DIFFERENT ANSWERS GIVEN, IS VERY MUCH CORRECT. I HAVE FOUR REDWOOD TREES ON MY PROPERTY SINCE THIS SUMMER, AND TWO ARE IN POTS. THEY ARE THREE FEET TALL, AND IS TIME TO PLACE INTO THE GROUND. I ADVICE HIGHLY AGAINST ANY FORM OF A POT, FOR THE TREE WILL SURELY DIE.
BUT FROM THE ANSWERS GIVEN, MAKE SURE YOU USE A GOOD GRADE OF SOIL LIKE SCOTTS FOR HEDGES, AND THEY DO SELL SOME SORT OF FERTILIZER, THEY THE GOOD LAWN COMPANYS, AND LANDSCAPE DO USE, IN PILL FOR. ONE ON EACH SIDE OF THE TRE...

FROM WHAT I HAVE SEEN FROM THE TWO DIFFERENT ANSWERS GIVEN, IS VERY MUCH CORRECT. I HAVE FOUR REDWOOD TREES ON MY PROPERTY SINCE THIS SUMMER, AND TWO ARE IN POTS. THEY ARE THREE FEET TALL, AND IS TIME TO PLACE INTO THE GROUND. I ADVICE HIGHLY AGAINST ANY FORM OF A POT, FOR THE TREE WILL SURELY DIE.
BUT FROM THE ANSWERS GIVEN, MAKE SURE YOU USE A GOOD GRADE OF SOIL LIKE SCOTTS FOR HEDGES, AND THEY DO SELL SOME SORT OF FERTILIZER, THEY THE GOOD LAWN COMPANYS, AND LANDSCAPE DO USE, IN PILL FOR. ONE ON EACH SIDE OF THE TREE, JUST ABOVE THE ROOT LINE, AND JUST BELOW THE SOIL BY SIX INCHES, IF YOU FURTHER EXPERTISE KNOWLEDGE, GO TO www.eBurgess.com, or www.fourseasons.com FOR I HAD QUESTIONS, AND THEY ARE HAPPY TO HELP IN ANY WAY, SHAPE OR FORM. PLUS THEY SELL THE SPECIAL FERTILIZER PILLS FOR WHAT YOU WANT TO DO, AND MAY HAVE A SOULUTION TO OTHER QUETIONS YOU MAY HAVE!